New Mexico

On February 11, we left early for BWI and a flight to Albuquerque for a week in New Mexico.  After renting a car, we drove about 100 miles south to San Antonio, where we left the interstate and drove seven miles in to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.  This refuge is well known for thousands of Greater Sandhill Cranes and also thousands of Snow and Ross’s Geese.

That first evening there were hundreds of the white geese in a shallow pond before entering the refuge itself.  Actually, it is probably in the refuge but before one reaches the visitors center and wildlife drive.  In any case the geese were just standing in the water, some quite close to shore.  None seemed bothered by the twenty of so photographers who were set up on the shore.  I made a few images, but this situation — with many other photographers — is just not my thing, so we moved on into the visitors center for a quick trip.  It was soon getting dark, so we drove back to Socorro and checked into the motel. 

For the next two mornings, we were up at 5, ate a quick breakfast at the motel (they cater to hunters and birders) and checked outselves into the wildlife drive.  They actually allow entrance one hour before sunrise, which is a great boon to photographers. 

The first morning, we saw a single coyote, the only one for the trip, but it was a long ways away.  I did make a few photos, however.  We also saw and photographed lots of ducks and geese and quite a few raptors.  No owls, however, despite reports of Great Horned out during the day.  We encountered a nice Black-necked Pheasant, a sub-species of the familiar Ring-necked, but colors were muted on this cloudy sky. 

We also had good looks and images of a Roadrunner that was working the side of the road.  It had obviously seen more than his share of tourists!

The second morning we “hit the jackpot.”  Shortly after entering, with a heavy frost on the ground, we came across a bobcat loping along perhaps 25 yards from the road.  Quickly he lay down and I was able to make eight rapid images of him, even though I had to lean across the seat where Chris was sitting to shoot out the right side window.  There was no chance that I could get out and use the tripod.  After ten or fifteen seconds, he got up and moved through the brush, but reappeared a few seconds later for two more quick images.  This is the only time in my photographic history that I have had a good opportunity for this cat.  A real treat!

Shortly thereafter, and only a short ways down the road, we came across another cock pheasant, but this time in full sun.  The colors were stunning.  I kept turning the car around so that I could shoot it out my window and successfully made several dozen images.  One was with his bill completely open.  I do not remember him crowing, but perhaps he did.  More likely he was just having a hard time swallowing the grit that he was picking up from the road.

If that wasn’t enough a few more minutes and we came across a small group of perhaps six or eight Mule Deer right adjacent to the road.  We photographed them, including two almost grown twin fawns with frost still on the ground.

Two species of raptors gave us some great looks.  An American Kestrel posed on a dead sapling very close to the road and I was able to get some wonderful images of him, including in the sun.  This bird is usually quite skittish, so it was a welcome change of pace. 

At one point, I was photographing a Raven picking apart the remains of a white goose, when another visitor came by and told us from his car window that across a dike from us was a Northern Harrier doing the same thing.  After thanking him, we moved, we located him  and I got out of the car.  I needed to move to make images that were impossible from the vehicle.  I found a spot where there was an opening through the brush alongside the dike and set up my tripod. 

I had a great look, but the bird also had a great look at me staring at her.  She must have figured that I was after the carcass and she was not going to give it up to a mere human.  She was perched right on top, so I waited for her to continue rippping it apart.  Instead, she froze.  The wind was blowing and I was missing my hat and after over twenty minutes, I was so cold I gave up.  She had not moved a feather in that time!

Later and not far away, we found a male Harrier perched on a fallen snag in great light.  For reasons that I do not understand, one seldom sees male Harriers, even where this species is common.  The bird remained on the snag long enough for me to make some nice images, before it took off on its apppointed rounds. 

The Visitors Center has a feeding area that may be viewed from inside.  It is not ideal photographing through glass, but I did so to capture images of Gambels Quail, Pyrrhuloxia, and Spotted Towee.  The images came out pretty well despite the conditions. 

After lunch we decided to drive on over to Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge which turned out to be 150 miles to the east.  It was not a good decision.  I had called the visitors center there a few weeks before and the volunteer I talked with raved about the place.  She assured me that coyotes were a “gimee” and there was lots of other wildlife to photograph.  She must have been smoking something from the garden!

We chatted with another volunteer at the center and he told us that we could sneak up on the birds and other wildlife on the east side of the wildlife loop.  We went there and found…almost nothing.  The part of the refuge where one is allowed to go is nearly devoid of all trees and there are not many bushes either.  Wildlife has almost no place to hide. 

There are thousands of white geese (mostly Ross’s) and Sandhill Cranes that winter on this refuge, but they take off either before or shortly after sunrise and return some ten hours later after sunset.  The rest of the day there is almost nothing to “work.”  The ducks are there, but very skittish, for whatever reason, far more so than at Bosque.  There are almost no passerines and a limited number of raptors. 

Sunrise the next morning was spectacular, but there was no change in the availability of photographic targets after the sun was up.  The lift-off was, however, terrific.  We considered returning to Bosque, but lacked the energy for another 150 miles drive. 

The second morning the sunrise was without clouds, so nowhere near as enthralling as the first morning.  We saw one Desert Cottontail several times that apparently lived under a small bridge, but that was the only mammal that made an appearance until the very end.

At 8 AM we went up to the Visitors Center again, where cracked corn is put out for the birds each day.  Scaled Quail were supposed to feed there, but we had been unsuccesful seeing them previously.  That morning, no one had put out the corn when we arrived and the volunteer was nowhere to be found.  After a few minutes, I went into an open room where I could see a “brown shirt” talking to someone else.  I asked if he could put out the corn, and he graciously accepted.

Within ten minutes a covey of about twelve Scaled Quail arrived at full speed.  Again, I was shooting through glass that had a glare from the morning sun, so conditions were hardly ideal.  At one point a Western Meadowlark came for a quick snack, as did another Cottontail, but the whole scene was over in ten minutes.  Something scared the quail and they all flew away.  It was time for us to go.

We drove through some very unattractive, unproductive land for many miles on our way up to Santa Fe.  The only live thing we saw was a small group of Pronghorns on the wrong side of the road, and a swirling flock of Horned Larks that flew in front of the car.  Even the cattle were few and far between.  This is not fertile country!  Wildlife photography was about over for this trip.

We did spend nearly two days in Santa Fe, enjoying all the art galleries and museums there.  I photographed many works of art some of which can be viewed on my Facebook page.  Of course, my wildlife work is there also.

Our penultimate adventure for New Mexico was taking the long tram ride up to the top of Sandia Peak on Friday afternoon.  Stunning views and a lot of snow, but nary a squirrel and only a few quick looks at a few passerines. 

On our way to the motel we made a brief stop at the Rio Grande Refuge right in the city of Albuquerque.  It is a small property but does have an interesting and well made visitors center and a “blind” wall with holes in it to view the birds on the river.  As we were ready to depart (the gates lock at 5 PM), four cranes that had landed on a dusty bare spot began to “dance.”  It was thrilling to watch them for a few minutes leaping in the air with wings unfolded.  Was this agression or the beginnings of mating season?  Who knows?

The next morning we flew home.

Tennessee Travels

In late December I noticed that an Asian Hooded Crane was being seen in Tennessee.  This bird has never been seen in North America, so I knew I just had to get him. 

When our planned cruise through the Panama Canal fell through, we decided to make the trek south and east.  We took off on January 18 and arrived nearly 600 miles later at the Hiwasse Refuge 30 minutes before sunset.  There were thousands of Sandhill Cranes present, but no Hooded.  During the winter the only place where one can visit this refuge is a platform that overlooks a lake edge and distant corn and grass fields.

The following morning it was 25 degrees when we arrived at the platform at about 8 AM.  There were already nine other intrepid birders present, shivering in the chill.  At 8:55 the Hooded flew across a grassy field, a long way out.  It was in sight for only about twelve seconds and I did not make a single image.  It was so cold that Chris spent most of the day keeping warm in the car and reading her book.  I stayed out almost the entire day, but no one saw the crane again.

At noon we drove into a nearby town by the name of Dayton for lunch.  The fast food restaurants are along a highway east of the town.  Afterwards, Chris suggested that we go into the old town and check things out.   Almost as soon as we got onto Main Street, here was the old Rhea Country Courthouse. There was a sign that announced that this was the location of the notorious Scopes Monkey Trial back in 1925 where Clarence Darrow faced off for seven days with William Jennings Bryan.  I had read about this trial decades before, but never knew exactly where it took place.  An amazing coincidence to find it when we weren’t looking for it!

We decided to spend an additional night in the motel in Cleveland, as I wanted another shot at photographing the crane.  But it was not to be.  He never showed again before we gave up at 10:30 and drove off.  Before leaving, I did make a number of images of  Eastern Bluebirds that had been flitting around during both days, an Eastern Phoebe, and, of course, the Sandhill Cranes, which are, if not rare, photogenic. 

Upon departure, we headed north and east to Townsend and the entrance to Cades Cove in Great Smokey Mountain National Park.  I had visited this popular location twice before, but never in January and did not know what to expect.  The entrance road follows Laurel Creek up a very scenic canyon, which must be spectacular during the spring when the extensive groves of rhododendrun are blooming.

We learned that the black bears were all in hibernation and even though it was quite warm, none ventured out where we could see them.  Maybe they didn’t even venture out!  Almost as soon as we got onto the loop road that goes around the fields and small copses of Cades Cove, we noticed a half dozen or so White-tailed deer munching on grass in the meadow.  Chris noticed that the farthest one was a buck, and a nice one at that.

I drove a bit further until I was opposite the buck and fixed Big Bertha onto the tripod before heading out into the field.  Unfortunately, the buck had had enough to eat for the time and was headed for bed!  On the far side of a barbed wire fence, he encountered two other large bucks.  All three were as big or bigger than any bucks I have seen in Cades Cove.  Two of the three lay down before I could make a single image, while the other wandered off into the brush.  I did make some decent images of the bucks lying down, but they would have been more attractive standing!

After that encounter we continued on the loop road and saw a large flock of wild turkeys out in a field.  Many were large toms with big beards, but they were not displaying and a long ways away, so I did not attempt any photography.  While we enjoyed the scenary, we did not see any more wildlife, so retraced our drive down Laurel Creek Canyon and out of the park.  We drove through the godforsaken Pigeon Forge before getting up to I 40.  Pigeon Forge must be the tackiest place in North America.  It makes Vegas look sophisticated!

We stayed overnight near Bristol and drove home on the 21st through some terrible rain.  Overall, we covered 1358 miles.

Holidays in Northern California

We flew to San Francisco, rented a car and immediately headed north.  Our destination was Calusa National Wildlife Refuge, north and west of Sacramento.  Our target here was the Falcated Duck, an East Asian bird that seldom shows up in North America.  It had been at this refuge for over two weeks and seen nearly every day.

The viewing platform was just inside the entrance and it was quite clear that the duck was not being seen, as folks were looking in all directions.  Turns out the duck had not been seen at all that day.  We got out, nonetheless, and made a few photographs of the habituated White-fronted Geese and other waterfowl within close distance to the viewing platform.

With no duck in sight, we decided to take the three mile wildlife drive where one has to stay in the car.  The birds in the ponds here are quite skittish as hunting is permitted in the southern part of the refuge.  We saw nothing in particular new except over thirty Black-crowned Night Herons sleeping in bushes across a canal like body of water.

Returning to the viewing platform, the scene had changed.  Most people were looking in one direction, and there was the Falcated Duck sleeping on a nearby log.  I took some photographs, but the angle was not good and the bird had its head underneath its wing.  So we got in the car, drove adjacent to the log and I photographed out the right window as Chris manipulated the car.  Every few minutes the bird would wake up and look around for a second or two as I snapped away.  Then head back under the wing.  Finally, it awoke, preened, and then jumped in the water and began foraging.

I returned to the viewing platform.  The duck was close and easy to photograph, but the light was bad.  It was dark, so the irridescence on the head of the duck did not appear green.  After a while it became obvious that conditions were not going to change, so we departed.  We were going to drive back down to San Francisco, but both of us were too tired to contemplate this.  We had arisen at 3:50 EST!  We got a motel at nearby Williams for the night.

We were up well before dawn and after a quick breakfast, returned to the refuge.  We did not see the duck, so continued on to the loop.  It was a gorgeous sunrise, so I stopped and took a number of photos with leafless trees in the foreground. 

As we were about to exit the loop, suddenly there was a flock of turkeys in the road.  The trotted off as we approached, but after escorting the hens twenty yards into the brush, the tom turned and ran right at the car.  I thought he was going to jump right into the window, but he went to the front of the car to check things out.  Concluding that we were not rivals, he ambled back off and returned to the hen flock.  Unfortunately, I could not get a good image as he never hestitated and there was insufficient light for a good shot with him moving.

The duck was not present, so we elected to go to the Sacramento property of the wildlife complex.  On the way out, there were Ring-necked pheasant cocks on both sides of the road in sparse vegetation.  They ran quickly to whatever cover was available as we approached, frustrating my attempts for a good photograph. 

At the Sacramento property, there was more territory and birds less skittish.  We added Cinnamon Teal, Ring-necked Duck and Bufflehead, all of which I photographed.  I also got a mellow Red-tailed Hawk right by the side of the road.  These birds were very common in our drive in the Central Valley.  We were running out of time by the time we had completed the loop at Sacramento, but still wanted a final photo opportunity of the duck.  We returned to Calusa, but the duck was sleeping again in its old location, so we headed south to Carmel.

On the way I began to get sick and ended up in the ER in Carmel that evening.  The diagnosis was a bladder infection and the next four days were not at all pleasant. 

Before leaving the Carmel area, we made a brief stop in Pacific Grove to view and photograph the Monarchs that winter there.  Turns out all the Monarchs east of the Rockies winter in the well-publisized mountain area of Mexico.  Those from west of the Rockies winter in several locations along the central CA coast, including Santa Cruz and Pacific Grove.  There were not anywhere near as many butterflies in the latter location as in Mexico, but still interesting to see branches full of the Monarchs, resting in torpur.

On January 2, we drove north to Point Reyes National Seashore.  The Visitors Center there had abundant California Quail scurrying about, as usual and I was able to make some very nice photographs of this stunning bird.  Also, this time I noticed pocket gophers in the median strip between the parking lot and the access road.  They apparently reside there to defend themselves from their predators that are unlikely to attack with all those people around!  This is an odd rodent, what with its very prominent incisors.

After lunch we drove into the reserve itself and headed north to Tomales Point where there is an elk reserve behind a high fence.  In 1978 ten animals were reintroduced here, eight cows and two bulls.  They have prospered.  There are now over 400 in the elk reserve proper and another 100 south of this area that can roam the entire reserve.

We easily located about twenty elk adjacent to the road, but unfortunately the fog was thick, making photography problematic.  I did make a few photographs of cows, but the dominent bull was nowhere to be seen.  We knew he was around this harem somewhere, but apparently bedded down out of sight.  There were young spike bulls, which are tolerated by the prime bull, but these are hardly photographically attractive. 

We drove further north and stopped at the parking lot for McClures Beach.  Here we hiked to the ocean for some good salt air before returning to the car and heading south.  This time the dominent bull elk was present and I made a number of photographs.  However, the fog was still present, so they are not clear shots.

After fifteen minutes or so of working the bull, we drove further along.  This area is dominated by legacy dairy farms and the country is rolling grass covered hills.  At one point, Stephanie, yelled out “look at that.”  There were two holstein cows herding a skunk out of “their” field.  It was about the most amazing and amusing thing I have even seen in the wild.  Once through the barbed wire fence, the skunk continued to forage in the sparse vegetation between the fence and the road.  I jumped out with my 400 and made photographs as best I could, although he was usually partially obscured.

At one point he decided to cross the road.  I blocked his path so I could get some decent images.  He raised his tail and sprayed a very minor shot of musk to let me know I needed to back off!  He then crossed the road, went under the fence and continued to forage in that other field.  I elected not to climb the fence and follow. 

You can see the images from this trip on my Facebook page.

Mid-December in Delaware

Exactly two weeks after my early December 27 hour trip to Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge, I returned.  I hoped to get another shot at the snazzy Red Fox that I had photographed before. 

How things had changed!  There was not a single colored leaf on any tree; all had dropped.  The Daiseys had disappeared.  The vegetation looked, well, like mid-winter.  Virtually all the teal were gone and numbers of Black Ducks, Gadwall, and Shovelers were greatly reduced.  Canada Geese and Pintails were at about the same level.  Tundra Swans appeared to have tripled in number.

When I drove in on the 15th, the tide was very high.  There were no Snow Geese in any of  the fresh water ponds.  I saw a few Northern Harriers flying over the salt marshes, but none came into range.  There were a few Great Blue Herons, but no Bald Eagles. 

On the way out, the fawn-faced Red Fox appeared at the same exact location of the previous trip.  This trip I got a good deal of time to work him before others arrived and spoiled the shoot.  I was sad to see that he had a bad case of mange, a disease caused by parasitic mites that will probably kill him.  Untreated, animals loose all the hair in the infected area and often succumb to hypothermia when the weather turns cold.

The following morning, I was into the refuge before dawn (about 7, dawn being 7:23).  There were already a few cars present that seemed to be set up to catch the arrival of the Snow Geese from the salt marshes.  Often they first drop into one of the fresh water ponds and drink and bath before heading out for breakfast.  This time they just lifted off, climbed and headed out to the corn fields. 

I noticed a half moon setting in the west and decided to try to catch a string of geese against it.  Geese were flying in strings of fifteen to perhaps fifty, and there was wave after wave arriving.  By adjusting the car as they were coming, I was able to make a few nice shots as intended.  It was very tricky, however.  You can see one on my Facebook page (name: Bob Mumford)

Other than a few shots of fairly close ducks, that was about it for the photography.  I never saw the full Red Fox on this trip, although I did see Fawn Face on Friday morning trotting down the main wildlife drive.  He never paused for anything!

Spontaneous Short Trip

We were planning to visit the Eastern Shore the week of December 5, but looked at the weather forecast on Dec 1 and saw that it was going to rain Monday and Tuesday and snow on Wednesday.  Spontaneously, we just decided to haul out that afternoon for just a short visit.  Chris had to be back Friday night to attend a conference on Saturday morning.

We got off at 1 something and got over to the Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge in Delaware at 3:45, in time for just about an hour of daylight.  We expected to see thousands of Snow Geese, but saw not a single one.  There were thousands of ducks and Canada Geese, however, more of the former than I ever remember seeing there.  We made one loop around the wildlife drive  and made only two routine images. 

On our way out, we suddenly noticed a Red Fox right next to the road.  I had Big Bertha, my 600mm lens on my lap, but the fox was too cloe to shoot.  It had obviously been fed by visitors and habituated.  Before I could change lens, the fox ran out into the field, moved off and I wondered what had alarmed it.  Two people with cameras had left their car and walked right up to the back of ours to photograph the animal.  Inconsiderate?  I guess so.  I let out a few strong words, although they never heard them.  I drove out bummed because I had not made a single decent image.

The following morning we were up early, ate a quick motel breakfast and drove to the refuge, arriving just before sunrise.  Just a mile along the wildlife drive we spotted a Great Blue Heron perched in a leafless tree right against the southeastern sky where the sun soon came over the horizon.  We were able to make some nice images of the bird and the trees silouetted against the dawn sky.

Several thousand Snow Geese had arrived in Raymond Pool and we watched as some more joined them and then about a third of the group burst skywards and departed for their breakfast in corn fields that dominate the DelMarVa Peninsula. 

Further along we spotted seven species of ducks, Tundra Swans and various other birds.  I made a few images of waterfowl, none particularly noteworthy.  Surprisingly, we saw no mammals at all.  In the spring along this same drive, we had seen seven Cottontails on the early morning go around. 

We took a deadend side road and found some interesting dead grass heads and also some very nice frost covered leaves.  Both were the subjects of some fair images. 

We made one last loop before heading back to Dover to check out of our motel.  On the way I mentioned that we had missed the foxes because it was now too late in the morning and they are nocturnal creatures.  I added that now that I had said this, I was going to be proven wrong.  And I was!

Along the beach section of the drive, Chris spotted a beautiful fox right next to the road and I slammed on the brakes.  It just eyed us.  It was obvious that this fox too had become habituated to visitors who had shared lunches with it!  We were so very fortunate that there were few visitors on the refuge, this being Friday.  We got an uninterrupted fifteen or twenty minutes working the animal.  I made fifty images, most of which are very nice.  The light was OK, even though this was nearly midday, because this was December when the light is always low.

We checked out of the motel and returned for one last turn around the wildlife drive, hoping for a Northern Harrier.  This bird is always on the refuge in the winter and almost always seen, usually cruising over the marshes in search of rodents.  This time we spotted one on a snag on the right side of the road.  We parked and I got out of the car and carefully took Big Bertha out ot the car with my big tripod. 

Harriers are normally very skittish and nearly impossible to photograph.  I swear they see a big lens and flee!  On a whim I decided to photograph this bird right through the car.  Chris opened her window and ducked down and indeed I made eight photos this way.  When I subsecquently tried to sneak around the end of the car for more work, the bird immediately flushed and that was that. 

We then departed the refuge and drove home early to avoid the Beltway traffic and night driving.  We had been gone a grand total of 27 hours, but what a great 27 hours.  Beautiful weather, abundant birds, wonderful photo ops and even a comfortable motel and excellent dinner.

October Work

I was out and about almost every day in October, working on two projects.  One was the annual competition for the U.S. Capitol Historical Society’s calendar, “We The People.”  I have been successful each year for the past five in placing at least one image in that calendar.  The calendar mostly features images of  Washington’s most beloved monuments and memorials.

This year — it being the 150th anniversary of the Civil War — the editor asked for images commemorating that war.  I made two trips to Antietam National Battlefield near Sharpsburg, MD, and two trips north to Gettysburg National Military Park.

Both these spots were the scenes of horrendous casualties and one cannot help but feel how wasteful and pointless most wars are.  But both spots are also very scenic and peaceful, bucolic spots now.  Antietam is far less “developed” and has far fewer visitors.  I made the mistake of visiting Gettysburg on a Saturday morning at the height of fall color.  The place was “overrun” with tourists, not a situation ammenable to serious photography!

My friend Howard Youth, a naturalist and writer, is putting together a book called  “A Field Guide to the Natural History of  Washington.”   If focuses on twelve parks in the District, including Rock Creek Park and the National Arboretum. 

A long time ago I agreed to provide the photos for this book, and while I had made some images for my book “Spring Comes to Washington” that would also work for Howard’s book, October was when the job came into focus.  I had to make shots before all the leaves dropped and while scenes were at the peak of color.  Accordingly, I made numerous trips into the city to cover each of the twelve spots.  Some, like Glover-Archbold,  were quite difficult, because they were mostly “undeveloped.”  There was just a simple trail through the middle of this park and the lighting was very challenging. 

I am happy to report that that project has been “put to bed.”  I successfully photographed all twelve locations, as well as over twenty species of trees.  Now I can return to my usual focus of working critters and more wild scenes!

Ecuador 12

On August 30,  I flew down to Quito for my twelth visit to Ecuador in the last four years.  Our first top, with my old guide, Rudy Gelis, was Pululua Crater, about an hour and a half from Quito.  Never been here before.  We did see Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, but, as usual, they proved difficult to photograph.  Came to the playback, but avoided full exposure!

Next it was back to the Harmony Cabins in Mindo that served as our base for three days.  From there we visited Milpe, Mashpi and Angel Paz’s farm.  The latter was the first person who has “trained” antpittas to come for worms.   This time in addition to the Giant, the Moustached and the Yellow-breasted, he had a lovely little Ochre-breasted. 

I really wanted that bird, but the light was really low in the cloud forest and flash is not permitted.  I did not make a publishable image, unfortunately.

Adjacent to Angel’s farm is a pig farm.  There was an Orange-breasted Fruiteater nesting here a few weeks before, but the young had fledged.  Rudy found the fruiting tree where they were feeding at some distance, and we watched over a long period, as both the male and female fed and flew across the road.  Finally, Rudy saw the male just sitting in a small tree up a steep bank on the opposite side of the road. 

We found an access point and climbed the bank and found the bird sitting next to a recently fledged young.  We waited him out and he finally came into full view and I made some very nice images of this colorful bird.  We had spent 3.5 hours working and waiting this bird!

We visited Milpe Reserve three times.  There was a nice flock of Swallow Tanagers there, working a small fruited tree.  But most of the time they sit high in trees and when they come down, they make it a habit of hiding behind leaves!  I made a few serviceable images.

At PVM, the closest town to Silanche Reserve, we checked into a roadside motel that charged a whopping $7 per night, which included plenty of hot water, a comfortable bed, and a fan.  Best value anytime, anywhere.  The U.S. ought to have such values!

We saw a lot of  birds at Silanche, but most provided only fleeting looks for a photograph.  One excepton was the gorgeous White-tailed Trogan, that posed near the tower.

From there we headed through Quito and out to the east, stopping at Papallacta Springs.  We got nice rooms with individual fireplaces (which were needed!) for a modest price.  In the morning we first worked the birds in the immediate area.  Rudy called in a Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager, and after many tries, he sat in the top of a small tree and vocalized, as if we had posed him.

We then headed up the road into the national park, gaining elevation all the way.  Unfortunately, my lens fogged up in the very chilly morning and I stupidly tried to rid the fog by pointing the lens towards the sun.  That worked, but it fried my D300s camera body.  I had to work with my backup 300 for the rest of the trip.

We saw plenty of birds in mixed flocks up that road, but they were feeding and moving very fast, making the photography a real challenge.  I did make some pretty good images of the Scarlet-bellieds. 

On the way to Yanayacu Research Station, we stopped at Guango, where Rudy found a Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan, a bird that I have never seen before.  Unforunately, he would not come close enough for a decent shot, albeit in the rain!

Two birds at Yanayacu were winners: a Noble Snipe that had recently bred nearby and a gorgeous male Torrant Duck in the Alder River.  Rudy, Jose and I tromped a cow field for a half-hour or more to find the snipe.  Once found, it did not fly far and I was able to make multiple images. 

The Torrant Duck we spotted from a bridge and Rudy went far upstream to guide him back down.  He posed nicely on a rock with white water behind him after he returned to the vicinity of the bridge.

Rudy also found a fruiting tree, after being alerted by Jose, near the road, where Quetzels were feeding.  The following morning, we parked ourselves by the spot as Rudy worked his playback.  Finally, a couple of Crested Quetzels came out to trees close enough for photography.  I had never made a single shot of this spectacular bird, and made a few good ones that morning.

Our last stop was Tena, where two rivers come together to form the Napo, a major tributary of the Amazon.  We were there to look for the Oriole Blackbird, which was located in the riparian area along the Napo.  While we saw several birds, they never got anywhere close enough for photography.

We did visit the home of a friend of Rudy’s, perhaps fifteen miles downstream.  It was pouring as we staked out the backyard where various good birds fed, from a second floor deck.  I was able to make very nice images of  a male Scarlet-crowned Barbet, despite the weather.  Made a passable image of a thoroughly soaked Orange-backed Troupial!

Fire Results

We had to move out of the house for nearly eight weeks as the restoration company worked on the house.  The entire upstairs was chemically cleaned and then the walls painted.  All clothes had to be dry-cleaned.  All the bedding in the burn room was discarded, as was some of the furniture.  All the carpeting on the second floor was replaced.  The windows and sliding glass doors in the burn room were replaced.  New mattress and box springs were installed in the burn room.

Within a few days, we came over to the house every day to work on the computer and keep an eye on the restoration work.  In the meantime, we lived in the Oakwood Apartments, about nine miles away.  We were able to cook there, although we did eat out more than usual. 

All in all, a most challenging time that was not finished until December.  The overall cost to the insurance company was a whopping $105,000.

The cause of the fire was a verticle fan that had been running for three days.  It shorted and started the fire.  The fan was manufactured by Holmes Electric, a subsidiary of Sunbeam.  My insurance company negotiated a settlement of $45K with Sunbeam, which seems very minimal to me.

Big Fire

We had just said goodbye to a guest at her car, and walked back to the house. We opened the door and all the smoke alarms were sounding off. There was heavy smoke evident. We thought that our cat was caught in the room that was on fire, so attempted to get past the shut door. The smoke was too heavy, but the cat was elsewhere anyway.

We called the fire department and went outside. A casement window in the burning bedroom broke out and flames were shooting out from this space. I got the garden house and climbed on top of a flower box, arching the water into the broken window. This suppressed the flames.

The fire department soon arrived and two men went inside and doused the fire, later breaking the two picture windows to allow smoke to vent. Smoke damage was extensive, although not much was actually burned.